Although the French capital now has its fair share of trendy wine bars, there is no replacing the traditional bars. Sitting in a an old-fashioned Parisian “bar à vins” with a “ballon de rouge” or a “petit blanc” is still considered as one of the great Gallic pleasures, something that has even survived the recent ban on smoking. Many of the 10 below will be closed for part of August, so be sure to call first.
1. Melac: Founded over 70 years ago, today the bar today is an institution for wine-lovers. Jacques Melac is an irrepressible character with a handlebar moustache and an infectious passion for wine, and the delicious cheese and charcuterie that come from his native Aveyron, a mountainous region in the centre of France. Here you can get some excellent vintages from the south of France, including his own vineyards in Corbieres. If you’re in Paris on September 13, be sure to pass by here as Melac hosts his annual party celebrating the harvesting of the grapes that grow around the bar.
Le Baron Bouge
2. Le Baron Bouge: Le Baron Bouge is the quintessential wine bar that everyone dreams of discovering in Paris. This is where everyone in the hip Aligre “quartier” gathers for a glass of wine, a plate of saucissons and fromages, or a dozen oysters in season. With its giant oak barrels, gleaming bar, and racks of fine wines, Le Baron buzzes at all times of the day and night.
3. Caves Legrand: Selling fine wines in Paris for over a century, the Caves Legrand’s beautiful shop is an Aladdin’s cave of not just wine and champagne from all over France, but foie gras, truffles and chocolate. The Legrand bar à vins has a list of five whites and five reds by the glass that change each week. For €6 (£4.75) why not try a little-known Irouleguy from France’s Basque country, while a 2004 St Estephe will set you back nearer €20 (£16).
4. Taverne Henri IV: One of the oldest and most respected wine bars in Paris, Taverne Henri IV is situated on the Pont Neuf, a bridge linking the Ile de la Cité with both the Right and Left Banks. Come here at lunchtime and you may notice a raffish old chap reading the paper over a glass of wine. This will be Robert Cointepas, who ran the Taverne for 50 years before handing over to the present owner Philippe Viremoux in 2002. Monsieur Viremoux has wisely changed nothing at the Taverne, and many of the wines have been sold here for three generations of “viticulteurs”.
Le Rubis
5. Le Rubis: Walk into Le Rubis at any time of the day or night and it is likely you’ll see the “patron” of the last 40 years, Monsieur Albert Prat, ensconced behind his zinc counter, amiably chatting away with one of the regulars over a small glass of Beaujolais, the wine that this bar is most famous for. Just off the ultra-fashionable Rue du Faubourg St Honore, Le Rubis, with its rustic wine barrels outside and battered red banquettes is a flashback to another era, long before the haute-couture boutiques, beauty salons and spas colonised this exclusive corner of Paris. No one should visit Paris without stopping off for a glass at this brilliant bar à vins.
6. Au Sauvignon: Run by the same family for more than half a century, Au Sauvignon is in the chicest part of Saint-Germain and attracts a smart, fashionable clientele, who care as much about which designer outfit they wear as what wine they are drinking. It is also one of the liveliest spots to celebrate the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau on the third Thursday of November each year.
7. La Palette: La Palette is the ultimate Left Bank wine bar with the perfect street-side terrace for people-watching, a retro zinc bar inside, a cosy backroom that was once a billiard hall, and a colorful arty clientele who quietly tolerate the crowds of tourists. Wine lovers shouldn’t expect to find an extensive choice, but the five red and five whites are surprisingly good quality – especially the Saint Veran.
8. Les Papillions: If you’re looking for an Irish pub, Brazilian cocktails, Greek kebabs or a boozy karaoke singalong, this is the right place for you. The minuscule Les Papillions has been here over a century, and although it is tempting to sit out on the sunny pavement terrace, the real action takes place inside around the bar. Holding court is the genial owner, Eric Bottin, who alternatively may be singing along to a Georges Brassens chanson with his customers, changing the mood with an old Bowie song, or enthusiastically explaining his small but excellent wine list, which all come from winemakers that he knows personally.
9. La Tartine: With its yellowing paintwork, ancient mirrors and Art Nouveau lamps, it looks as if time has stood still in this venerable wine bar, the favourite Marais haunt for artists, fashion designers and chic bohemians.
10. Piston Pelican: Hidden away between the Bastille and Belleville, the strangely-named Piston Pelican is well-worth tracking down. Although it looks like another old-fashioned bar à vins, it has recently been bought by two charming Parisian ladies, Sandra and Aurelie. They are maintaining the traditions – an eclectic wine list that includes off-beat French wines like the crisp white Picpoul, alongside bottles from Portugal and Chile – but also attracting a hipper crowd at the weekend, who come more for the cocktails, DJ sets and live bands.
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